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Thread: Marhaba (welcome) and please introduce yourself

  1. #1
    Trailblazer Tim Cullis's Avatar
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    Marhaba (welcome) and please introduce yourself

    "Ssalaamu Aalaykom" (peace be unto you) and "Marhaba" (welcome) to the Morocco Knowledgebase site.

    Although established primarily to act as a support resource (photos, files, articles, news) for the forthcoming book of the same name, the MKB website is well positioned to become a focus for regular travellers to the Kingdom. So, to kick things off, please stop by to say hello, introduce yourself and your interests.

    To set an example... My name is Tim Cullis. I first travelled to Morocco in the early 1970s on a money-making venture—to buy some Goulimine beads for resale.

    I fell in love with the country and I've been back maybe forty or more times in the decades since, including two weeks trekking with mules in the High Atlas, and eight weeks studying Arabic in Fez. Yet I feel I still don't fully know or understand Morocco—maybe after another forty visits...

    Apart from adventure motorcycling and high-altitude trekking, my interests are geology, nature and pre-history. If I had visited Morocco when 12 years old, I reckon I would have been a geologist!

    Tim
    Last edited by Tim Cullis; 10-02-11 at 18:41.
    "For sheer delight there is nothing like altitude; it gives one the thrill of adventure
    and enlarges the world in which you live,"
    Irving Mather (1892-1966)

  2. #2

    Thanks Tim, congrats to a fabulous page

    Hi Tim,
    Wow, you did some work here. Looking forward to the book. Also hope to see you soon again. The snow is melting so it´s time to get the tyres rolling.We are doing an off road tour on the 22nd April. Fancy getting dirty?

    Hug Hana

    www.motoadventours.com
    Guided On and Off Road Tours in Spain, Morocco, Portugal and Czech Republic

  3. #3
    Hi Tim,

    Looking forward to going on my 2nd visit to Morocco this year.

    Your pictures, reports and advice are great and I look forward to your book.

    Ride safe everyone.
    Nick.

  4. #4
    Hi Tim,
    It had been bothering me that I hadn't been onto your web community since you kindly sent me the invite.
    I just had a scout around and I think it looks great, I'm sure this will become the default location to visit for information on Morocco and adventure travel here.
    I look forward to following the development and progress here and wish you all the best for the future with both the book and the community.
    Cheers!
    Tim

  5. #5
    Hi Tim, it looks great! What a work... what a devotion... what a lot of people will like this!

    Good luck finishing the book and always good to see you on your next Morocco trip.


    May we introduce ourselfs...

    Peter Buitelaar and Zineb Moulouda, together we run Bikershome Ouarzazate Morocco.
    Peter (1956) travels Morocco since 1978 and lives there since 2003. Especialy in the last 14 years he has build up a +25000km off-road GPS track log in the area between Erg-Chebby and Laayoune. Off-road riding/driving is his passion.
    Zineb (1983) is born in Ouarzazate. She's probably the fastest Moroccan girl on 4x4 wheels when following the group during our desert/mountain tours. Besides that she can cook like an angel.

    Further,
    Bikershome does its best to provide bikers with what they long for after a enervating day on wheels; bikes parked safe in the garage below the building, a hot shower, washing machine for your sweaty clothes, comfortable bed, dinner prepared by Zineb, cold beer/coke from the livingroom fridge, relax on the roof terrace, check your email, look at the world news or enjoy a nice film, get travel advice.
    In our garage you can inspect your bike or have our mechanic do it for you.

    In case of a breakdown in Morocco? Call Bikershome, give us your GPS location and we come for your rescue by 4x4 pick-up. We repatriate you and your broken bike to a garage at your request or to Bikershome or even back to Europe.

    Besides that we offer desert/mountain tours on Yamaha or KTM; Fly in to Ouarzazate (or Marrakech, then bus transfer to Ouarzazate), we spend the night in Bikershome, next morning after a good breakfast we start riding. Off-road bikes, fuel, 6 hotels, all food, mineral water, energy-bars, 4x4 support vehicle with service mechanic, all is included except drinks and flight ticket.
    Also for 4x4 adventure... Bikershome is your guide.

    Warm greetings from us, Peter and Zineb

    www.bikershome.net
    www.morocco4x4tours.net
    www.hikershome.net

  6. #6
    Hello all, and hello Tim and Peter and Zineb!

    Visited Morocco for the first time last year and will be coming back again in April next year (2012)

    Hoping to stay with you again Peter, and it is true that Zineb is a fantastic cook, and both Zineb and Peter made us feel really welcome. If you stay with Peter and Zineb then you MUST get them to take you for an avocado milkshake.....

    Hope to see you all next year!

    Gareth

  7. #7
    Thumbnail of last weeks trip with 4 guys from Holland... all on TTR's.
    -
    By the way... the track from Tafraoute via Oumjrane to Zagora lost all it's charme... bulldozers and trucks have ruined the landscape. Better take the the southern track from Tafraoute to Tagounite. Turn left after "Dinosaur Kem Kem".
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Bikershome; 10-05-11 at 16:16. Reason: additional info

  8. #8
    Pilgrim
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    Hi Tim and friends my name is Luis Rosado, i`m from Portugal, i first travelled Morocco in April this year and hope to go as many times as you I drive a Tenere 660 and also have a 4x4 and i`m making plans to the next visit to Morocco.
    Anything from Portugal i`m here.

  9. #9
    Pilgrim
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    I'm Peter - I'm a Canadian and have travelled to Morocco twice - the first time in 2002 for two months; it was my first time anywhere and it kind of blew my little mind. Since then I've visited many other places around the globe buy Morocco still has a special place in my memories. That's why my wife and I went back there in 2009 and why we are moving there next month. Bring on the adventure!

    I'm interested in peeking around your site and joining in on conversations. It looks like there are piles of resources here, thanks for all the hard work. I will contribute whenever I can.

  10. #10
    Pilgrim
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    Hi Tim, thank you so much for making possible this site/forum. I´m new to MKB, and looking forward to share experiences and contribute with some pictures. "Only" been to Morocco 7 times (still 33 to go...) but done mostly tarmac roads. Will return to Morocco for 2 weeks in September, following some tracks from "Morocco Overland".
    My name is Carlos, 38, married, Airline Pilot. Use a 1999 Transalp for exploring some tracks. Over 20 years riding, though rookie on offroad.
    Would be pleased to meet you on day. Inshalah.

  11. #11
    I am Natalie,

    My husband and I fell in love with Morocco last year when we married in traditional ceremony in the Medina of Marrakech. We are returnng in October this year and have booked a trek of the Atlas. Your blog and photographs have been fantastic.

  12. #12
    Pilgrim
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    Hi Tim,

    My name is Peter, I live in St Petersburg, Russia. I've been using information from the Knowledgebase on several occasions, and it was always extremely helpful and relevant. I travel to the Sahara and West Africa every winter. Currently driving a landcruiser 80.

    My favourite region in Morocco is Anti-Atlas, especially those striped mountains between Tazenaght and Tata, and further west. It was Peter from Bikershome who introduced me to the region a few years back. Last winter I noticed the region was getting asphalted at an alarming pace:-(

    Hope to meet you on the road one day! Good luck with your forum and the forthcoming book - am I correct that you're having a book of the same name come out soon?

    Cheers,

    Peter Kozyrev

  13. #13
    Pilgrim
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    Hi Tim,

    This forum is looking awesome.

    I had my first trip to morocco last year (2010) as part of a group of 5 traveling through the Mid atlas, down to Merzougha, across the Dades/Todra Piste with a quick stop with peter and Zineb at bikershome for a few beers and a well needed shower.

    I took a load of info from the UKgser site which not doubt you had a big hand in.

    Going for 3 weeks in Tunisia this year (Sep), but Morocco will always have a special place in my motorcycling memories.

    Shad

  14. #14
    Hello Tim

    Matthew here, I've travelled to Morocco for the last three years for a month at a time with a 4x4 and looking forward to another visit next year. This year I took along my seven year old son who also loved Morocco and made friends wherever we went, often having tea (food) with Moroccan families after playing with their children.

    I fell in love with Morocco immediately, the views are stunning and the people warm and friendly.

    Like a lot of people I'm sure, I learned a great deal from your threads around the internet, so thanks very much and good luck with your book.

    Pictures Here of our last trip if anyone is interested.

  15. #15
    Pilgrim
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    Hello everyone and Assalamualaikum

    I am Zee from Malaysia. An keen traveler, an avid diver and just a normal next door girl from Asia region.

    I am travelling solo to Morocco early next year but still with zero itinerary of what i should do and go. This forum looks like a good place of filling in my itinerary

  16. #16
    Pilgrim
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    Hello again Tim
    Hope to see you somewhere again
    https://picasaweb.google.com/1091683...50794658120274
    Greeting Marek and Beata

  17. #17
    Pilgrim
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    Hi, it's time for me to say hello to all of you Kasia, from Poland, biker since 2004. After some visits to the Balkans we (me and Tom) decided to see Morocco. We are planning the ride the next summer. I'm really looking forward to it I still don't know the route, but it doesn't matter, there are still a few months before.
    Tim, your website seems to be very useful I've already found a lot of information. Thanks a lot I really like the photo of some handsome hippy
    Hello again everyone Especially you Marek (consigliero)

  18. #18
    Pilgrim
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    Hi, The timing of the Morocco edition of ABR magazene and finding this forum could not be better. Married to the long suffering Maria with five kids and two businesses to run, on of which is the biker friendly "TAKODA CAMPING" which hosted the first ABR rally last year, my adventures or rather funds are limited. We also look after orphaned Children in tamil-Nadu, India through a local charity called "Curry Aid"
    I must admit with some guilt that I use this as an excuse for adventures, all self financed I should add, in addition to holding Curry nights and hosting slide shows for the kids.
    My biggest challenge was one that I think even Nick Sanders would be proud of, a sponsored ride through 14 countries in 16 days, a total of almost 6000 miles. I have travelled in Southern India and some years ago in the USA. Earlier this year I had a two wheeled holiday through HUngary and Slovakia before meeting up with my family for a holiday in Poland. Then in September I completed another charity run from Lands End to John "O" Groats in a day, 1000 miles, almost.
    Next year I plan to push my boundaries with a trip to Morocco starting late April. I would like to raise money for the kids and so I am adding a twist to this trip.
    I plan to film everything armed with a halmet cam and camcorder and with the help of my travelling mate Kevin. My son is studying media at A level and has agreed to produce a 90 minute DVD to sell and raise money for the kids.
    I realise that to most people on this forum a trip to Morocco although wonderful is no biggie, but to the sponsors of "Curry aid" and the local yokels of Cumbria, I may as well be going to the moon.
    Our trip cannot have to much of the rough stuff as I ride a Varadero and Kev rides a V-strom. We have two weeks in Morocco and intend to sail to Tangiers then head for Chefchaouen before riding to Fes and Moulay Idriss. From there we will head south toward Midelt and Er-rachiddia before heading to Tinerhir and the Todra Gorge. From there I would like to visit the guys at Bikers home at Ourzazate before heading South to Mhamid where I think the true Desert starts?
    From Mhamid I would like to visit Ait ben haddou before riding the Tizi-n-ticha pass to Marrakesh then north and home.

    The aim of the trip is to have an adventure but I also need to produce a film that will appeal to bikers, non bikers, young and old, so it needs to include culture, food, music and travel.

    Any information and advice would be greatly appreciated,

    Many Thanks
    Paul

  19. #19
    Hi All,

    First off - hats off to Tim, an awesome site, congratulations. Like many I have already gleaned a huge amount of info from your postings.

    Like many on the site I am a foreigner who has fallen for the delights of Morocco. First time I visited Morocco was in 1988 as part of a round Africa trip. Been back a further 5 times since, with Land rover (when not broken down) and motorbike. Managed to get around a few of the pistes and planning more trips, next year with Matt K from this site. With a Landy I have met some awesome mechanics. Thanks to the Landy I have also been able to get to many of the most wonderful places.

    More than happy to meet up with anyone in the Bristol area if they are interested in going to Morocco and will help out in any way I can.

    Guy

  20. #20
    Pilgrim
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    Hi all,

    Just a quick intro! My name is Sam Barghout and I have been riding bikes since I was 17. I have done the usual apprenticeship of road bikes then sports bikes, Nurburgring 3 times a year for 10 years, European touring, off roading with my boys, track days and green laning. I love anything at all to do with bikes including working on them. For the last few years I have been hankering to do the Morocco thing as touring in Europe has started to get too familiar. Unfortunately a combination of setting up a small business, the recession and my son going to University have made it difficult to date. I am now making an effort to do something about it. This website is a very good source of information and a good place to start. I am thinking of getting out there over the next xmas break to do a road trip with my wife - probably on a hire bike. I am also wanting to get out there and do some piste riding on a dirt bike.

  21. #21
    Hi i,m Danny from Sheffield been riding bikes since i was a kid field bikes,ar50,tzr, loads of sports bike until a tour of europe.Got the bug to tour zx10 out triumph tiger 1050 in.Done a few tours of britain and europe,worked in africa a few times so thought morocco sounded good.Ferry booked for march 18th to santander dragging the girlfriends dad[bmw f650gs] along for good measure, undecided on entry to morocco, Ceuta or tangiers med any one got advice which is best,also only got 7 days in morocco so plan on going to Chefchaouen then on to Fes then through cedar forest on to Marrakesh then back through tizi-n-ticha pass then back up in the direction of fes then back for the boat.Have i bit of more than i can chew or is it possible but don,t want a race many thanks Danny

  22. #22
    Trailblazer Tim Cullis's Avatar
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    I prefer Tanger Med but Ceuta is fine as well. Check which is the cheaper ferry. You can get some idea of prices at http://www.aferry.to

    Your route is certainly achievable but you'll be on the road a fair amount. I always suggest to try to keep to the side roads as much as possible, so from Chefchaouen to Fez I'd go via Bab Taza, Beni Ahmed and Ouarzahr. For Fez to Marrakech I would go via Sefrou, then cut across by the lakes to Ifrane, then Azrou, Ain Leuh, Sources Oum er Rbia to Khenifra. After that you could go via the Bin el Ouidane reservoir, Cascades d'Ouzoud, Imi n'Ifri natural bridge and then Demnate to Marrakech.

    Just after the Tizi n'Tichka pass turn sharp left signposted Telouet, visit the kasbah then continue east and south to Ait Benhaddou.
    "For sheer delight there is nothing like altitude; it gives one the thrill of adventure
    and enlarges the world in which you live,"
    Irving Mather (1892-1966)

  23. #23

    tiger 1050

    Thanks Tim will take some photos and post some treads when i get back just hope not to cold in the mountains many thanks Danny

  24. #24
    Pilgrim
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    Hi all
    I travelled to Morocco in 2009, by motorbike, on an organised tour.
    This year, in April, I'm Morocco bound again; this time independently, but accompanied by a friend. We'll both be on motorbikes.
    I'm looking forward to seeing more of the real Morocco at a relaxed pace. We'd like to sample some easy pistes but have open minds about what we do. I'd quite like to get further south than last time, possibly heading west from Zagora and hitting the coast at Sidi Ifni, but nothing's set in stone.
    We've got three and a half weeks; 18 days in Morocco. We're on the Plymouth to Santander ferry on 1st April, First of the season I think.
    Congratulations on the site Tim. Look forward to the book.
    Ssalaamu Aalaykom,
    Geoff

  25. #25
    Hello from West Wales, i'm Geoff and together with 6 friends will be going to Morocco in september, we will have 9 days there and are hoping to do a lot of pistes. We are riding a mixture of bikes, a couple of 990's some teneres and gs's all lightly loaded hopefully. We are going to loosely follow a route i saw on ADV rider ridden by colebatch. I have wanted to visit Morocco for years and now things are falling into place(well the ferry is booked !). Excellent website Tim, lots off great info but i can't seem to find your routes anywhere on forum, If you can point me in the right direction it would be appreciated.

  26. #26
    Greetings. My name is Martin and i'm from Surrey,UK. This year will see my first trip to Morocco after several holidays in Europe. Heading down, in September, on my KLR via the ferry from St. Nazaire after meeting up with my travel companion in Nantes.
    Thank you Tim for setting up this site. I've spent plenty of time checking out the info on paperwork etc, as well as looking at all the amazing photographs. Sure i'll be asking for advice and suggestions in the future, as i plan where to go on my trip.

  27. #27
    Hi everybody. I´m Rui Pires, from Portugal. Just found this forum yesterday when i search for some resources about Morocco and found here very good information related some Morocco places i know less well. Thank you very much, Mr. TIm Cullis for such great work and share.

    I start to go Morocco since 1989, as normal vacation trips. But since 2006 i start a serious documentary project named "Lands of Allah" where i try to document Berbere people and traditions in north of Africa with photography. Since 2006 i trip to Morocco many times, 2 or 3 times by year and make many Moroccan friends, some like family to me.

    You can see a small colection of pictures from my documentary project here :

    http://ruipires.fineart-portugal.com...7/landsofallah

    This year i will be again in Morocco in June, this year i intend to document Bebere tribes and familys in high and anti-Atlas mountains.

    All the best !

    Rui

  28. #28
    Hi everybody. My name is Julian, 29, living in Berlin.

    I first went to Morocco in 2010 on my trip down the West coast of Africa on a TTR. Pictures here: bit.ly/africapics
    In 2011 I couldn't stay put and in the summer I went to Iran and back, again on my trusty Yamaha TTR 600. Love my bike. FB page here: http://www.facebook.com/whereisjulian/photos

    I read a countless number of Tim's helpful and insightful posts on the HUBB and eventually found my way here, to his Morocco Knowledgebase.

    This summer I will have to break my TTR's heart and leave her home, because I will take my girlfriend to Spain, Portugal and Morocco in my parents old Toyota Carina estate. Not many pistes therefore, I'm afraid, but a roof over my head and the misses by my side.

    Thanks for this site and for spreading your knowledge, Tim.

    Cheers and all the best from Berlin,
    Julian

  29. #29
    Hi all,
    I fell in love with Morocco when I was ten and living in Andalusia. My parents took me on a day trip to Tangier. I had a snake put round my neck, got to ride a camel for all of two minutes and eat amazing food with my hands. I went back another three times. Once as a student, then with a good Moroccan friend to visit his family, then with my girlfriend of the time.

    Now I am taking my family. We are driving in our truck which I have been converting over the last few years. Can not wait!

    I have started a blog, http://www.wanderingoverland.com
    Which will record the adventure. We are setting off in two weeks time!
    yipeee

  30. #30
    Pilgrim
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    Hello there,
    I'm Laura and 1st went to Morocco last October on a Nick Sanders trip with my husband for our honeymoon. We are going back again this October but by ourselves and planning to do some trail riding as well. Saw the link to this site via Tim on Adventire Bike Rider, looks a great site so far, well done Tim

  31. #31
    Pilgrim
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    Hiya. I'm a bit of a Morocco enthusiast, having first visited in 1978. What a great country...and now here's a great website to do the country justice. Well done lads!

  32. #32
    Pilgrim
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    Hi Folks....

    Iv'e been to Maroc quiet a few times in my own 4x4 and used to work as an off road guide when they were in operation (Redtread Morocco Ouarzazate)riding on the fast CRF450 1200km tours. I haven't had the pleasure of meeting Peter yet though!!

    I'm retired early and still ride regularly off road here in France on my Gas Gas 300EC....(so if any one is short an off road guide who speaks English and French ping me a PM)

    I'll be heading back to Maroc at the end of October on my XTZ660Z with a small group riders for pleasure,so looking forward to that.

    If I can be of help in any way to fellow overlanders whilst anyone is passing through France by all means post a thread.

    Regards to all

    Keith.

  33. #33
    Hi Tim- we met a while back at the Hubb meeting- 2011- Since then, you ignited in me and my wife the desire to experience Morocco on motorbikes.
    I have been granted a special "dispensation" to do a solo recce starting end April 2013, returning to UK to meet my wife for the all new Hubb meeting end May.
    I have a choice of bikes & after watching your talk & further reading the write up on here, I intend to travel down to & ferry to Santander..travelling through Spain.
    I have decided on this as opposed to hiring for the opportunity to max out on the experience.
    My questions will be based around this trip. I have been a lurker on this site for a year or so, but as dream becomes reality and so to fear!!, I thought it best to sign up!
    I am based in York am a web designer, have 1-2 years off road experience and am looking foward to helping others on my return based on my experiences.

  34. #34
    Hello, my name is paul, i am from the uk but, am currently staying in spain with my XT. i have had 1 trip to morocco a few years ago where i travelled through ketama in the first few days - a lovely introduction to morocco!
    I have just spent sept and oct travelling round europe and now i am in spain waiting to make my trip across the water. Just reached a real stumbling block though, i need to take out new biker medical insurance for morocco, but can only find policies that require you to start your cover in uk!!! Morocco seems so near yet so far....
    Anyway i really look forward to getting there somehow and sharing my experiences with other members.

    All the best to all
    paul

  35. #35
    Hello everyone, my name is Mac.

    I have been to Morocco a couple of times with my Land Rover Discovery 300tdi. The Discovery is now owned by my son and I have a Defender 200tdi project on the drive for my next trip later in the year. My first trip was supposed to be a charity trip taking 4 vehicles, however after others dropping out it turned out to be a solo trip. My last trip was also solo in Sept/Oct 2012.

    Great forum.

  36. #36
    Hi Tim,

    I was talking to you at the Ripley HUBB meeting 2011( I left the lights on on the bike and you kindly came over to tell me ) thanks for sharing all you're valuable information about Morocco,

    My F800GS is now finally ready, the ferry booked and I'm leaving Ireland on the 27th March for six weeks on the road/ hopefully mainly in Morocco.
    Thanks to the all the info I got through your website and the inspiring presentation in Ripley I feel I can do this.(even handling Map Source)
    So its me on my trusted GS 800 and my partner on his R100 , ready to go.

    I've been to places like Alaska and Australia but never traveled the Maghreb before, nor have I ever set foot on the African continent, so it will be indeed a trip of a lifetime.

    See how things go I might post a few bits and bobs about the trip when I'm back,

    Great Forum

  37. #37
    Hi Tim
    My name is David and I'm planning a first trip to Morocco in June. I ride a Honda Varadero SD01, which is getting a bit long in the tooth. This bike has taken me and my wife to Sicily and to the Alps. In addition to this we have toured on rental biles in SE Asia - Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia, Laos and for the last couple of holidays, Sri Lanka. I was slowly trying to persuaade my wife that we should ride down to Greece and Turkey this year. Out of the blue, over dinner, she suggested Morocco. Apparently Argan oil exerts a strong force on the female psyche. I nearly bit her arm off.
    Needless to say there will be questions. I've already used this site and enjoyed the pictures and avise.
    Great Stuff

  38. #38
    Trailblazer Tim Cullis's Avatar
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    Welcome Mac and Swissmiss, hopefully your trips will go just great.

    Jackdaw, welcome to the site, I responded to your questions on Horizons Unlimited.
    "For sheer delight there is nothing like altitude; it gives one the thrill of adventure
    and enlarges the world in which you live,"
    Irving Mather (1892-1966)

  39. #39
    Hello

    My name is Carlos and i am from Lisbon, Portugal.

    I have beem in Marroco for 3 times, two on a quad doing Raid de lámitie and 1 in a Yamaha teneré.

    I pretend to go this year again, im april doing some easy pistes with a loaded bike.
    I hope for you advices.


    Inshalá

    arqui

  40. #40
    Greetings to all and special thanks to Tim for creating this wonderful resource.

    My name's Phil. I live in Washington, DC and am rather hooked on Morocco in general -- and riding in Morocco in particular. I've lurked around this site for some time, picking up highly useful tips, but finally got around to signing up just today.

    In June, I'll be taking a trip similar to the ones I've taken the past two years, although squeezed into three weeks rather than the usual month or so. It's loosely organized around music festivals: Starting in Marrakech, heading to Fes for the Sacred Music Festival, and from then off to an obscure village in the Rif foothills to stay with a group of Sufi trance artists, and ending in Essaouira for the Gnawa Festival. Everything in between is negotiable. This time around, I'm bringing a friend and we're probably going to stay mostly on tarmac, since this is his first time there and he has limited off-road experience. (Hell, I hadn't done anything off-road since I was a teenager before I took on the Cirque de Jaffar, on a fully loaded bike, but that's not really a model to be emulated.)

    Anyway, my loose plan for the first week or so is this:
    Day 1: Starting in Marrakech, taking the Tiz-n-Tichka, turning off to Telouet and the valley leading to Ait Benhaddou, staying there or in Ourzazate (Bikershome).
    Day 2: Ourzazate-Zagora, perhaps taking the Circuit Tourstique piste in the Draa.
    Day 3: A long one. Zagora-Dades.
    Day 4: Dades to Imilchil.
    Day 5: Imilchil-Azrou via Oum-er-Rbia and Ain Leuh (might be a bit ambitious)
    Day 6: Azrou-Fes (short day, two nights in Fes)
    Day 8 Fes-Chaouen

    Tim, I'm intrigued by the route you've described between Fes and Chaouen via Ourtzahr, Beni Ahmed, and Bab Taza. I'm bored of the N13 via Ouezzane, although it gets very pretty from a little bit south of Ouezzane all the way to Chaouen. And I find the long way around via Ketama to be, well, long and a bit stressful (although beautiful). Is your Ourtzahr-Beni Ahmed route fairly well signposted? The Michelin map makes rather a shambles of this route, and my other map doesn't even have anything continuous from Ourtzahr to Bab Taza. I'm assuming I would start out of Fes on the N8 and then turn left on the unnamed (by Michelin) road about 10 km north of Fes that goes over the Oued Sebou? And from there, I take it that the road is the one marked as the R 419? I've been picking my way around the country without a GPS for years, but just want to make sure I can do this without getting lost in the Rif.

    Another general query: I'm considering spending roughly the last week on the Atlantic coast, from roughly Asilah to Essaouria, staying perhaps in Rabat, El Jadida, and Safi (or somewhere more remote like Souira Kadima) on the way. But this is a stretch of coast that I'm unfamiliar with . It looks as though the coast road is pretty stunning from El Jadida to Essaouira, but am wondering whether it's worth taking the motorway until we're through Casablanca, on the reasoning that the smaller roads that one would otherwise take probably aren't that scenic but probably are congested as hell.

    Any thoughts that Tim or the collective has would be welcome. And thanks again for providing this resource!

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