Sidi Ifni is a lovely Spanish art-deco styled town on the Atlantic coast. It was acquired by Spain in the late 1850s but not fully occupied until the French had pacified the interior in 1934. Spain hung onto the town after Morocco gained independence in 1957 and only withdrew in 1969 after a land and sea blockade.

The Spanish consulate is now in ruins (webpic) in the central Hassan II square but there are many other art-deco buildings. The best hotels in Sidi Ifni are the Hotel Bellevue (beautiful view) with a brilliant aspect over the beach and the Hotel Suerte Loco (Crazy Luck) which serves paella, crepes and other varied cuisine.

This route starts in Sidi Ifni, takes a loop towards the port over the abandoned airstrip then heads north along the coast. Then there’s a stop at Legzira for a morning coffee and an optional offroad section running along the beach through the sea arch.

Regaining the road, this area has very much the feeling of the ‘Big Sur’ area of southern California with a road sandwiched between the coast and hills. You head north again for Mirleft where there’s a visit to both a French and a Spanish fortress.

Mirleft is another good place to hang out if you want to relax with good beaches, surfing, horseriding and quads.

Photos are a mix from various trips.


Sidi Ifni: Bellvue Hotel on left with the old church (now law court)


Hotel Suerte Loca (crazy luck)


Another hotel on the beach front


the Spanish Consultate won't be opening any day soon


the Spanish Governor's Residence is now the Royal Palace


view south from Bellvue Hotel roof


sea spray in the air


km0: start of the route on the edge of the old airstrip (control tower circled)


km2.3: customs/coastguard lookout over the harbour


km3: domed roofs in the Spanish barracks and sentry posts


km4: passing through Sidi Ifni


km10: on the main R104 heading north


km17: view down into Legzira Beach


three beachfront hotels


and sea arches


didn't bother dropping the luggage




km39: pretty auberge


km42: Mirleft's Spanish fort on left, French on top


visiting the French fortesss




great view overlooking Mirleft


the Spanish fortress is now...


...Hotel Les Trois Chameaux


km46: Mirleft main shopping area


km50: fishing boats pulled up out of the water


the walls of Tiznit on the tarmac route north